How to Choose a Coat That Will Work Hard in Your Wardrobe

A good coat is one of the hardest-working pieces in an Autumn or Winter wardrobe, but finding the right one isn’t always as easy as it looks.

Beyond colour and style, there are a few details I always check before recommending a coat to a client. From the fabric to the cut of the shoulder, these small things can make a big difference to how a coat looks, fits and works with the rest of your wardrobe.

Here are three things I look for when shopping for a coat.

1. Look closely at the fabric

The first thing I do is look at the fabric up close.

For a classic wool coat, I particularly like a herringbone weave. It’s a durable, hard-wearing weave that tends to age well, making it a good option for a coat you want to wear for several winters rather than just one season.

I also recommend holding the fabric up to the light and looking for any noticeable sheen or shine. This can often indicate a higher proportion of synthetic fibres in the blend.

Ideally, I’m looking for a wool-rich fabric with little to no sheen and a substantial feel. Always check the composition label too - it will give you the clearest picture of what you’re actually buying.

2. Consider a drop shoulder - and don't be afraid to size up

The next thing I look at is the shoulder.

A drop shoulder sits slightly beyond your natural shoulder rather than aligning exactly with it. It gives a coat that relaxed, slightly oversized silhouette, but there’s also a very practical reason I like it.

It leaves room for layers.

If you’ve ever put on a blazer, leather jacket or suede bomber in winter only to realise your coat won’t comfortably fit over it, you’ll know exactly why this matters.

Your winter coat needs to work with the clothes you actually wear underneath it. A slightly roomier cut means you can layer without everything feeling tight across the shoulders and arms.

For the same reason, I often recommend trying a size up in coats. Don’t get too caught up in the number on the label. Try it with a blazer or chunky knit underneath and look at how it actually fits.

Layering is one of the keys to making a capsule wardrobe work harder, so your coat needs to accommodate it.

3. Check the cuffs before you buy

This is a small detail, but an important one - particularly if you’re petite or often find coat sleeves too long.

Before buying, look closely at the cuff. Where are the buttons positioned? Is there enough room to shorten the sleeve without interfering with the design? Could you turn the sleeve back neatly if needed?

A coat doesn’t necessarily need to fit perfectly straight off the rail.

Some of the best-fitting high-street coats have simply had a small alteration made by a tailor. Shortening a sleeve can completely change the proportions of a coat and make it look much more considered.

So when you're shopping, don't just ask, “Does this fit?” Ask, “Can this be made to fit me properly?”

Laura. 

The StyleSavvy® Team Coat Selects: